And we’re enough sure that beaneries at The Stratford’s Allegra Restaurant will have been doing the same since it opened in 2019. A satiny and soulful space that flows out onto lushly planted sundecks with broad views across the megacity, Allegra is an exceptional dining experience set atop the seven-story east London hostel. The conception is
the concoction of Manhattan Loft Corporation’s Harry Handelsman – the inventor behind both the Chiltern Firehouse and
St Pancras Renaissance hostel – who brought in former Chiltern Firehouse cook Patrick Powell to head up this elevated, produce-led dining destination.

“ The entire eatery has been a real labour of love, ” says Patrick. “ Space Copenhagen designed the interior and their approach is scrupulous everything in the room has a reason for being there. Harry and I wanted the food and donation to reflect this, so rather than opting out-the-shelf tableware designs, we decided to work with makers who would really understand the adventure. ” To help with the commissioning process, Harry and Patrick enlisted the moxie of London-grounded hairstylist and creative director, Alex Kristal. Alex worked on the design from conception to completion, distilling the details, sourcing the makers and guiding the design process in line with Patrick’s vision. We take a really nice piece of meat, fish or a vegetable and try to make it as succulent as possible intruding around I like food to be simple and honest. “We started with many clear parameters, but the brief surely evolved over time,” says Alex. “ Patrick wanted the pieces to be understated and protean with a handcrafted sense, and to give a textural background to the food without contending. ”Endlessness was an important consideration, too. “ No faddy shapes or glazes, ” Patrick adds. “We demanded everything to wear well and look just as good in ten times ’ time, much like the room.”

To this end, every item demanded to be incredibly robust. The pottery, in particular, had to repel chemical dishwashing, dumbwaiters and innumerous busy services. While keeping these practical considerations in mind, Alex and Patrick narrowed material choices down to rich-hued tones, glazed pottery, charred ash and pale aeroplane, and kept colours soft and muted – think soft greys and accentuations of teal. “The space was a structure point while I worked on the design, so I called in as numerous of the contrivers ’ material samples as possible, ” remembers Alex, who cooked the palette to work in harmony with the eatery’s refined and tactile blend of homestretches. The interior hairstylist looked to other caffs in Space Copenhagen’s portfolio – similar to Noma – for alleviation, chancing synchronicity between Patrick’s dishes and the pruned-back Danish design aesthetic. “ The food at Allegra is veritably seasonal and produce-driven, ” Patrick elaborates. “ We take a really nice piece of meat, fish or a vegetable and try to make it as succulent as possible. No intruding around I like food to be simple and honest. ”

When it came to sourcing the makers, Patrick was keen to support the original creative community as much as possible. “
I was apprehensive there were some great ceramicists in east London, but I was amazed at the cornucopia of gifts that Alex discovered, ” he says. The brace created a shortlist from images of work they respected, also visited workrooms and commissioned samples to make their final selection. This included pottery by Owen Wall and Sue Pryke and rustic pieces by Luke Hope and Adam Kester of Bird & Branch Turnery Co.
It was a great experience and Alex understood the design veritably snappily, which was a huge help,” says Patrick, adding that the chuck service was maybe the most satisfying series to commission. “ There’s commodity veritably beautiful and emblematic about breaking chuck with musketeers and family, ” he muses. “ Adam drafted the fantastic charred chuck boards, Sue created gorgeous adulation shanks out of complexion and Owen made the inconceivable adulation dishes for us. ”

For Owen Wall, who was assigned with creating 1200 particulars of tableware, the commission was a substantial undertaking. “ I’ve made 400-odd pieces for caffs in the history, but this was a step up. I indeed had to buy a new kiln, ” says the Enfield-grounded ceramicist. “ I suppose Alex put together a really nice set of homestretches that worked well together. My favourite glaze is a textured white that’s on the larger plates and the small chuck plate, which actually came about as an unanticipated result. ”
The adulation cutter, which sits on the chuck plate, is a highlight for Alex. “ I transferred some illustrations to Sue Pryke, who created a series of primary models sculpted in cataplasm for us to see and hold, ” she recalls. “ We were trying to marry it up with Owen’s design and it had to balance on his dish. It’s simple but veritably beautiful. ” The size of the cutter and how it felt in the hand was of consummate significance to Sue, who wanted it to have a weighty, “ cheering heaviness ” to it. “ From the design to the food, the attention to detail on every position of the Stratford design was astounding, ” she says. “ When the temperature of the adulation is a discussion point behind the scenes, also you know that the cutter you use with it’s surely going to be important. ”

With this in mind, bone can’t help but wonder if, after over a time of use, these painstakingly made pieces are still passing muster. “ They ’re geriatric well and some have worn in a way that further enhances how they look, giving them indeed more character, ” affirms Patrick. “ I’m really happy with everything we commissioned; the pieces all sit beautifully together and always admit a lot of respect. ” Considering the time and gift that’s been invested in this design, it’s no surprise to learn that it’s proving a success on all fronts – performing in a destination eatery ( Allegra Restaurant )